There are several terms that we encounter when we are working with our Model A's that can, with a good understanding, lead to a quieter, more reliable and safe car. These terms are often used in repair manuals, and while they may sound very technical, they are in fact simple.

The most often referred to term is 'backlash'. Officially, backlash is defined as the 'dead band' that is experienced when a mechanical system changes direction. Backlash is most often referred to in relation to the fit of geared components. Without a certain degree of backlash, geared systems would fail quickly due to the lack of clearance between parts. Anytime you have a gear that's mating with another gear, there needs to be a clearance for the tooth of one gear to 'roll' into the other gear. This is where backlash comes in. A tight fit in this case would lead to a metal to metal contact and quick failure. The opposite side of the coin is if there is excessive backlash in a system, it is a sure bet that there has either been some wear in the gears or an adjustment has gone out of specs. A gear set with a good backlash will allow the lubricant to form a 'film' between the metal parts, and while the film may be 'microscopic' it does keep the metal parts from coming into direct contact.

It's all in the timing, Son... remember that.

If you'll remember last month, we talked about several mechanical terms that you often run across in Model A literature. This month, I'd like to use this page to give you an example of how one of these terms, backlash, can cause you some serious headaches.

I learned a valuable lesson in timing about a year ago. We had just awakened Cletus (Steve Teal's fire truck #1) from a 30 year slumber and it was amazing to hear the old engine actually running. Problem is when we took him out of the barn for a test drive, there was almost NO power, very sluggish, and running pretty darned hot. I was beginning to think that we'd have to take the whole engine down for a rebuild, but after stepping back and thinking for a minute, decided to go over things one more time. I took the distributor cap off and wiggled the rotor to check for play... yep a little, but I'd seen worse. But the kicker was that the backlash on the rotor was almost 1/8 of a turn... we're talking serious backlash here. After some investigating, we concluded that the backlash in the distributor/oil pump drive gear was causing the engine to run retarded... seriously retarded.

So what next? Rebuild the distributor? Replace the drive gear? Well, yes, but not right now. It occurred to me that the distributor drive system never had the opportunity to have any 'float' in the system, since there wasn't anything in the system that would provide the momentum to allow the distributor to 'run ahead' of the engine This means that basically the engine is always having to nudge the distributor cam around. So what we had to do is adjust the timing so that the cam was on the absolute front of the backlash. Here's how we did it, and I'd bet if you tried this trick the next time you timed your A, it would give you better results.

Follow all the standard procedures on timing your engine (retarded spark , set gap, set TDC with timing pin) Now here's the trick: Get a cheap test light for 12 Volts ( it will still work on 6 Volts, just dimmer) and connect the alligator clip to the arm of the points and the probe end to a ground point. Get out your cam wrench and loosen the cam adjusting screw-up some, but not totally loose. Using the cam wrench turn the cam COUNTERCLOCKWISE as the points open each time, the light will come on and then go off. CAREFULLY come up on the position for the #1 cylinder (5 O'clock on the cam wrench) and stop when the test light just begins to glow. If you go past that point DO NOT turn the wrench back, go around again. If you turn the wrench back that introduces all the backlash into the system and throws your timing off. When you're satisfied that you've got it right, carefully tighten the distributor cam screw WITHOUT MOVING THE CAM ITSELF. Now, here's the test. Put the high tension lead that runs from the coil to the distributor so that there's a gap between the lead and a good ground (I use a head nut) and with the key on, use the cam wrench to turn the distributor shaft back and forth. You should hear a nice little 'snap' just before the cam bottoms out on the gears. If this is not the case, try, try again.

I've been using this system the last year to time distributors and have found it to work incredibly well. After you've done it successfully several times it becomes routine. Hopefully, it will work equally well for you.

This month, I'd like to use this page to discuss several issues that might crop up with your model A in the electrical department. Like most vehicles of its time, the model A has a 6 volt system, and to add confusion to the issue, old Henry decided to make it positive ground. People often ask Why 6 volts? Why Positive ground? Well, back in the time of the model A, many homes in the United States weren't yet electrified.. That was one of the projects that FDR put into action to help ease our way out of the Great Depression, and there was a great deal of fear surrounding electricity in general. It was believed that 6 volts was the 'safest' voltage, that posed the least threat to a human.... at least that's what the literature said. As for positive ground, I've heard that the reasoning was that there would be less corrosion on the battery terminals if the car was wired positive ground. Actually, a Model A will run just fine if you hook it up negative ground... you just have to make sure everything else in the system is adjusted accordingly. (Mike and Judie Story's Elvira is wired that way and does just fine...)

OK, now on to a little electrical theory... We all see the terms voltage, amps and resistance tied to electrical objects. The best way I can relate these is to put the in the 'plumbing' perspective. Say, for instance you have a garden hose that's 1/2" in diameter and 100' long. Hook it up to the faucet and put a pressure gauge on the end with a shutoff valve. When you turn on the faucet, pressure builds up in the hose to the line pressure in the system, say 50 PSI. Now, open up the shutoff valve. The pressure drops and you have water flow. Not much, but flow just the same. Now, do the same with a 3/4" hose. When you turn the faucet on with the hose shutoff, you still get the same 50 PSI, but when you let the water flow, watch out! Now apply the same principle to Electrical. 6 volts is sort of like 50 PSI, you can get six volts through the smallest strand of wire, but no 'volume'. In electrical terms, the volume is called 'amperage' (amps) and the pressure is called 'volts', leaving resistance to discuss. Back to the water hose example. Say, for instance that you're using that big 'ole 3/4" hose to water momma's roses and the pressure is trying its hardest to blow the plants right out of the ground( Fine with you,right?....naw) so the first thing you do is use that little shutoff on the end to reduce the volume of water coming out of the hose.... AHA! Resistance. There is plenty of water available (amps) and lots of pressure (VOLTS) but the shutoff valve (resistance) won't let it pass. Now, for the infernal rose garden, that resistance is good, but you sure wouldn't want that resistance if your model A were on fire!

Putting it together.....

When you're using 6 volts to run a car, it's important to remember, that since the voltage is HALF of what a modern car runs on, you'd better have a big enough 'hose' to run all the volume you need (amperage) If you go to the auto parts store to get a new battery cable, they'll likely sell you a 6 Gauge cable. Well, that's fine if you're running a 4 cylinder Toyota, but for a model A, it should be more like a 2 Gauge cable, In fact, all the wires on the model A should be larger gauge than what it's modern 12 volt equivalent would require.

Since you're running low voltage, resistance plays an important role. You already have low pressure, you sure don't want to make a 'kink' in the line by having a restriction. That's what happens often when you have electrical problems in the 'A'. The problem, generally lies in the fact that Henry used the center crossmember to attach the positive ground strap to. Now, if you look at how the system is built, the energy to start and run the car has to go through the negative lead to the starter switch, and then circle around back to the battery to make a circuit. The problem comes when you think about it, there's few paths that the energy can take on it's way back .It could go through the rear engine mount, but there are rubber pads there. If it's an early car, it could go through the u joint housing hanger, but that's not good, either. It can travel all the way back to the rear and come through the spring, or all the way up front and through the front engine mount and through the spring, too, or even as I suspect as Henry intended, through the engine pans. None of these are reliable, in my opinion as a good ground connection, the best being the engine pans, which are often non-existant, or have a heavy coat of resistance-prone grease on them.

So here's what I suggest... Go and get you a good heavy ground bonding strap at the auto parts store. Modern cars use them to connect the various body parts with the electrical system. They look just like the flat ground strap that you have on the model A. Get one long enough to hook between where your present ground strap hooks and a connection point on the engine or transmission. For years, I've used a bolt on the top of the transmission cover with good results. Be sure and scrape and sand a good shiny spot where ever you connect the strap and keep check on it for corrosion.

Here's another thing to take a look at. Most of us run a fuse block on our A's for safety. I really like the idea of a fuse in the system, but many of the fuse blocks that are out there are seriously defective. The blocks that are commonly used employ a glass fuse that just snaps in. If you'll look closely how that block is made, the part that holds the fuse and the part that the wiring connects to are just riveted together. Now, a rivet is fine for electrical contact if you're going to be keeping the fuse block in a nice dry area, but as you well know the hood area is subjected to all sorts of road grime, radiator overflow, 

puddle splash and blow-by. Eventually, resistance builds up between the parts and you start having problems, which may show up as hard starting, dim headlights or even lack of good horn when the lights are on. I've changed to a modern style plastic fuse encased in a rain-tight fuse block that eliminates both problems. My theory is that if you blow a fuse and are stranded out there, a good Samaritan is probably going to be driving a modern car with an extra fuse you can have rather that something that's 1970's vintage with glass fuses. Plus, I think that this rig looks a lot neater and is much less obtrusive. I've got the NAPA parts number of the fuse block, and will be happy to show anyone how to install it.

The other things you should keep an eye on are making sure the light switch is clean and free of any 600W that might leak from the steering box and road grime that might collect in the housing. Take a look at the battery terminals. If you have white fuzz growing on them, there's going to be a problem. I recommend getting the battery cleaner spray from the auto parts store. It will foam up 

and neutralize all the corrosion. It has a great feature that turn the spray bright pink any time there is acid present. Clean until no pink shows. Use a brush to clean the battery terminals and then put them on TIGHT. Finally, I use a battery terminal protector spray. It's a spray waxy substance that leave a red coating on the terminal, but I've never had much of a corrosion problem since I've been using it.

Always keep in mind that a model A, with it's 6 Volt system is going to require more maintenance that its contemporary counterpart. Always think overkill when you're working with wiring, and celan contacts are a must! Until next time, keep 'em running and get 'em out on the road!

Touring.... the thought either evokes great fear or great fun among Model A owners. The Model A was built to drive and has proven to be extraordinarily reliable for the last 70 years. No, it won't take you down the road at 70 MPH comfortably in the hot August sun, but it WILL make you slow down and enjoy the back roads of this fine land.

So, what do you need to go a touring? Here's a few things that I'd recommend.

First, change your oil. Every 500 miles at least, and if you don't use your A much, every 6 months, since condensation can build up in the crankcase and contaminate your oil. You'll need roughly 4.5 quarts to do the job. SAE 30 NON-Detergent oil is what is recommended, and you can get it at Tractor Supply in Leesburg and Eustis.

Check the differential and transmission lube, use 600W lubricant if needed. Regular 85 Wt Gear oil is too thin and will LEAK.

Grease the chassis and running gear. Don't forget to really pump it to the Universal joint and occasionally hit the throw out bearing hub underneath the floorboard. Another often forgotten lube point is the rear wheel bearing. The fitting for this can be found underneath the rear axle housing where the brake backing plate connects to the casting.

Oil the distributor and generator.

Grease the water pump, but be careful greasing the end toward the engine since over doing it can lead to a stopped up radiator.

Clean and re-gap the plugs... look for oily or sooty plugs to give you hints on what the engine is doing. Clean the plug wires.

Take off the distributor cap and body. Check the point gap. As the points wear the clearance tends to get tight, and this can cause some overheating. Also get a point file. They are cheap, and take the buildup off the points quickly.

Take the time to lift the front floorboard and look at the battery connections. Pay particular attention to any corrosion that you might see. NAPA auto parts has two products that I highly recommend. The first neutralizes and dissolves the white crud that forms on the post. The second is a protective spray that coats the connection. My battery has gone two years without any corrosion forming using these two products. Check the water level in the battery and fill with distilled water or rain water if needed.

While you're in the area, you might want to check the free travel on your clutch. The correct amount is 1 inch of free travel before you feel resistance.

Check for the correct pressure in your tires (35 PSI)... don't forget your spare. Make sure that all the lug nuts are TIGHT. The driver's rear and Passenger's front tend to loosen up. Look for any abnormal wear or obvious defects.

At least 2 spare spark plugs

2 spare condensers (make sure if you have the modern type that you have them)

3 or 4 lug nuts

Blatant Plugs

Most Model A owners pride themselves in keeping their cars well maintained, and while the cars themselves are relatively simple, there are certain aspects of them that are best left to professionals. This month, I'm going to give out some 'free' advertising to let you know where you can get some services done on your Model A by competent individuals.

We've gone over setting the toe-in on your cars several times, but there is a lot more to a properly adjusted front-end that just toe-in. Here's where Gibson's Wheel alignment comes in. They have the equipment and know-how to set the Camber and Caster on your car properly. These involve gently bending the front axle to correct years of bumpy roads and hard knocks. They have a $59.95 deal that gets everything lined up perfectly and probably 3 or 4 road tests to make sure everything is right. Rumor has it that they get it right the first time, but the other tests are because they like driving a model A. Call Gibson's at 352-787-3676.

For years, I've used TRS in Orlando for these two areas. I've seen the cruddiest, rustiest nastiest generators go in there and two days later they come out looking and working like new. I recently took a generator to them and they filled out the tag with my name and phone number. I was looking at the next blank which was description of the item and just as I opened my mouth to tell him he wrote down MODEL A FORD before I even had the chance to speak. Folks, there aren't many places that recognize a generator or starter of this vintage, nor are there many places that do work as fast, economical, and quality as these guys. Believe me, they are worth the drive into Orlando. Their phone number is 407-298-5490.

Did you know that you can get GREAT insurance for your model A at rock bottom prices? My sport coupe is around $125.00 a year for no deductible 100% coverage that even insures my spare parts! There are several companies out there that offer this coverage, some of them limit your activities more than others, but the one I choose because of their ease of use is Haggerty Insurance. They are more lenient on their restrictions for using your model A, and their people are just plain nice to work with. Their phone number is: 1-800-922-4050 or www.hagerty.com.

How about never having to buy a tag for your Model A again? Sound too good to be true?... Nope. The State of Florida issues Horseless carriage tags that are good forever on your model A. No more trips to the tax collector! the rules are simple. No hot rods (must have original type engine), Florida title, proof of insurance, and about $30.00. Here's the kicker, though. Don't go to your local tag office. You are guaranteed to get a vacant look when you ask about the tags. You must get them directly from one lady in the state DMV office. We have the forms you need to fill out that outline all the requirements and will have them at every meeting. The legislature has been known to pull the plug on these tags before, so I'd suggest you get yours now before they change their minds again.

If your model A is more like a tea kettle than a car, you might need a visit to Gene's radiator in Winter Garden. Over the years they have cleaned and fixed many radiators on Model A's. When you're working with 70 year old brass that tends to be brittle, you have to be real careful. If you put pressure on a model A radiator like modern cars do, they're apt to blow apart. Gene's does a lot of Model A work for folks around Central Florida, and they are familiar with the quirks of a Model A. Incidentally, if you need a new core for your radiator, be sure to take them the radiator shroud (cover) so they can get the mounting holes right and the thickness correct. You can reach Gene's at 407-656-1110.

Well, by now I'm sure that Jerry is reading this article wondering if I've forgotten about him, but for all your other model A needs, give him a call. I can't tell you how many times I've called over there to order parts and get advice, and on more than one occasion, he's said "WHOA, you don't want to go that route" We are indeed fortunate to have a supplier of parts that is within driving distance, has the time to spend with you, knows you by name and is willing to go the extra mile. Where else can you go and walk in to a store and say "I'll take that brand new engine for my Model A that you have sitting there"? If your A is already in top condition, Jerry will always sell you some fancy accessories that will dress up even the plain model A. I regularly call him for parts during my lunch hour and I'll generally have them the next day. You just can't beat that kind of service, not to mention he is a member of our club! Jerry can be reached at 407-695-8911.

There are a host of resources out there devoted solely to the Model A, but none more powerful than those on the internet. With a little digging, you can find out almost anything about the model A, sites devoted to restoration, speed, fine point judging, classified and era fashion. I'd like to devote this space to run down a few of my favorite spots and resources on the internet.

Without a doubt, the best site on the net is Dale Clinton's Ahooga.com (www.ahooga.com). This site is kind of like having a worldwide model A meet every day. Perhaps the best area of the site is the Message Board, where people from all around the world come to ask questions, share ideas and offer support to fellow model A'ers. Feel free to jump in the group and participate. This fine site is supported by the folks who use it, and you are liable to find anyone from myself to Marco Tahataras (the fellow who was instrumental in writing the judging standards) participating in the fun. The issues discussed range from simple to extremely complex. If you have a problem with your A, chances are there will be about 10 people that will be willing to help you out on Ahooga.

Both national clubs have their own presence on the web, and offer services like classifieds, member support, merchandise ordering, and e-mail. the Model A Restorer's Club's site is WWW.ModelAFord.Org and the Model A Ford Club of America is WWW.Mafca.Com . Both sites offer almost identical services, but the MAFCA site lets members pose questions directly to the technical director... Don't be surprised if you question ends up in the national magazine.

Ever wonder what's all the fuss about babbitt? Want to see how it's done (or was done in the 30's), check out Steve Ross' page on rebuilding the Model A engine using original KR Wilson Equipment. Also Check out his TOOLS page. This site has information that is almost priceless to an engine builder, and to my knowledge is not available in print anywhere. The address of the great site is: WWW.users.michiana.org/rosss/modela.html

There are literally hundreds and hundreds of websites devoted to the Model A and related areas. Ahooga.com has about the best compilation that I've seen and you can click on the 'MODEL A LINKS' button and they will all come up. Finally, if you're wondering where my site is, well here goes:

WWW.Pages.Prodigy.Net/model_a_Tim the only tricky thing about this on is to remember to put the underscores ( _ ) after to Model and A. Get out there and have some fun with your computer, let the 21'st century help keep the history of the early 20'th century alive!

I like to drive my Model A at night. I know that that involves some risks, but I restored my model A at a night school class, and it has become natural to drive it the 16 miles to school on a regular basis to do minor adjustments and maintenance. The trip home is usually after 9 PM, and down back roads.

For a long time, I have been disappointed with my headlights, and have just written it off as one of the shortcomings of the model A. Not any more. I was at school one night and asked the instructor how to aim headlights. Modern headlamps have several protrusions on the surface of the glass that are used to align the lamps with an aiming device, but no such luck on the Model A. The instructor looked at the lamps and said that we'd just have to do it the old fashioned way, Two degrees down, 0 left or right.

First we loosened up the bolts holding the headlights to where we could move them with a little tension. Next, we held the straight edge against the lamps and adjusted them to the point that the lamps were touching them at two places for each lamp. This indicates that the lamps are zero degreed left or right, since they are parallel with the straight edge and the other reference point is the headlamp bar.

Now, here's where it gets a little tricky. We next had to hold the angle finder against the face of the headlight lens and adjust it to where it would read two degrees down all the while maintaining the zero left or right. Trust me, it takes a few times to get it right. When we were satisfied that we were close, we tightened down the headlamps.

Then, it was off for a test ride. For the first time ever, I had a very good, focused low beam, and wide spreading high beam. Before I tried this method, there was little difference between high and low beams, I honestly thought that they were more of a backup system in case one of the bulb filaments burned out. I feel more secure driving at night now, and I noticed the other night when Sandi was driving home and I was in front of her that the A had a nice, even pattern of light coming from the headlamps where before they had left a lot to be desired.

I've tried the Henry approved method of adjusting headlamps several times over the years, carefully marking out the space and alignments on the wall, but for me, this simple trick taught to me by my instructor was just the ticket. I surely hope some of you will give it a try and let me know how it works out for you.

If you listen long enough to Model A'ers talking you'll undoubtedly hear the word Babbitt mentioned. For many, it's a term that's shrouded in mystery, and anytime the word 'bad' and Babbitt are used together, it creates, if I may borrow a phrase from Ross Perot, a 'Giant sucking sound' from one's wallet. This month, I'll attempt to fill you in (pun intended) on the low-down on Babbitt.

Isaac Babbitt, 1799-1862, was a hero in the new world, both on the war front and also the domestic front. It was Babbitt, a chemical engineer, who was responsible for the first successful manufacture of Britannia Ware in the new world. This Product, which is a combination of Tin, Copper, and Antimony was the best substitute for the much more expensive and fragile pewter. Pewter had become the most often used metal for dinnerware, but at considerable cost (an not to mention lead content...) By introducing Britannia Ware of domestic origin, Babbitt was able to break yet another hold that England had on the new world. In 1834, Babbitt became superintendent for Alger's Foundry and Ordinance Works in south Boston, where he became the first person to cast a cannon out of brass.

Perhaps his greatest achievement, however came in 1839, when he first suggested and later patented the alloy for which he is named. The United States was growing by leaps and bounds by this time, and as we all know, the railroads were an important link to the country's progress. IT was Babbitt, who in 1839, patented the first railroad bearing journal box. Journal boxes are the parts of a railroad axle that support the weight of the car and load through the axle to the wheels. Due to the size and enormous weight these axles must carry, they must be able to withstand extreme use and abuse. To reduce friction, the axles ride in a bath of oil. During the good old days of railroading, it was a primary duty of the caboose staff to monitor the train for a 'hot box' which signaled a bearing about to give way and possibly cause a derailment.

Congress was sufficiently impressed with his invention that they awarded him $20,000 for his effort. Isaac Babbitt died in may of 1862. In his obituary, it was reported that he died of 'an over activity of a prolific brain'... let me think on that one for a while.

Fast forward a half century or so. In the 'good old days' bearing technology was synonymous to 'Babbitt'. Ball bearings and Roller bearings existed, but they couldn't withstand the abuse that certain applications subjected them to, namely industrial and automotive applications. Babbitt technology was simple, cheap and proven. By this time, many Alloys of the metal had been formulated by adding compounds such as Iron, Bismuth, Zinc, and most

importantly, Lead. In comparison to all the other compounds in Babbitt, lead is cheap, and for many low speed applications it is just fine, but just not for high stress applications.... more on that next month.

Ford, like other automobile manufacturers of the day, didn't think twice about using Babbitt as the bearing material in his cars. After all, there was no other choice at the time. Just about any local mechanic knew how to provide 'bearing service' in their shop. Often times bearings were poured right around a crankshaft and then hand scraped in using either white lead or bluing as a judge of fit. Babbitt was also very forgiving... it was soft enough that impurities in the oil would imbed themselves in the metal and not wreak havoc on the crankshaft of the engine. Try running your modern car for years without an oil filter and see what happens. The only drawback of Babbitt was that it needed a continuos bath of oil to keep from having a metal to metal contact of the moving parts, and it needed a tight fit in order to keep from having slop in the shaft from pounding the metal into nothingness. Many of us have heard the unmistakable low thud-thud-thud of a wiped out center main, a sure sign that your engine wasn't properly maintained and your bearings weren't adjusted according to schedule. Additionally, I'd bet that some of us (me included) hold our breath when we take out the oil plug on our engine and hope that the spirit of Isaac doesn't deliver those small shards of metal that signal the end of a bearing. There are model A engines out there that are still running after 70+ years of service and haven't yet needed bearing work. Now if that isn't a testament to longevity, I don't know what is.

Fast Forward to 2002. Take apart a modern engine and look what's inside. You'll find modern bearing shells that are easily replaceable, and extremely exact in clearance. The folks who pour babbitt aren't your local grease monkey, but are increasingly fewer each year. But even though your mechanic may not realize it, all modern automotive shell bearings are made of steel.....with a thin coating of.... you guessed it.... Babbitt.

A century and a half of progress... and the world still 'revolves' on the invention of a person who died from an 'over-activity of a prolific brain'... now if that isn't something to ponder for a while, I don't know what is.... Just take a lesson from Isaac Babbitt... don't ponder on it too much.

Babbitt, part two

Last month we talked about the history of babbitt bearings and even how they are still in use today. This month, I'd like to get a little more specific to the Model A.

There are two areas in the model A that babbitt are used, both in the engine. The first, and usually most problematic area is the main bearings. The crankshaft in the engine transfers the linear (up and down) motion of the pistons into the rotary motion that makes the 'wheels go round'. The babbitt bearings support the crankshaft in three places, one at the front, one at the rear, and a center bearing point between the second and third cylinder. Each of the connecting rods, additionally, have babbitt bearings at the point they connect to the crankshaft. So the whole package is rotating at somewhere between 200 and 2000 revolutions per minute. Oil is being fed to the main bearings through tubes that run from the valve chamber above, and each time a rod turns around, there is a scoop on the bottom of the rod that picks up oil from the oil pan. There is oil slinging everywhere through the crankcase.

Friction is the enemy in any internal combustion engine, and the oil forms a thin film that keeps metal from scraping metal. This is where the bearing clearances become critical. The optimal clearance between the the bearings in the engine are .0015"... that's 1 and one-half THOUSANDTHS of an inch... that's about the thickness of a folded piece of regular tinfoil. This is ample space for an oil film to form and keep the metal of the crankshaft from direct contact with the babbitt. If this clearance gets too high, the extreme forces of the gas mixture exploding cause the crankshaft to wobble in the bearing and sooner or later, the wobble becomes a wallow and then the crankshaft actually begins to flex enough to flop in the bearing. Now, Babbitt is a great material for anti-friction applications, but it's drawback is that it is relatively soft. If the crank begins to flop around it doesn't take long before the soft metal gets pounded out. Sometimes you have no indication that this is happening until you go to change the oil and little shards of pounded Babbitt come out of the drain plug hole. Other times, youcan hear a soft dull thud as the crankshaft flops around in the loose bearing.

In order to avoid the heartbreak of having to re-babbitt your engine, Ford recommended checking the bearings at a 5000 mile service interval. This involves pulling the pan, and taking off each rod and main bearing cap and measuring the clearance using a thin waxed string called plastigage. You lay this string in the bearing and re-install the bearing cap and tighten to torque. What this basically does is 'smash' the string, and a gauge is provided that will indicate the clearance by how much the bearing flattened out the string. Under each bearing cap are thin pieces of brass called shims. As the engine wears, these shims can be removed to tighten up the clearance, and avoid having the engine self-destruct.

This is a rather involved process, it takes time and quite a bit of labor, and that's the reason that I think it often doesn't get done... and the reason that many engines go bad. The most susceptible part of the engine is the center main, and that is the culprit behind many engine's demise.

Another area of concern is the in the rear main. This is the largest of the bearings, because it has to support the weight of a 60+ pound flywheel spinning around, and it also controls the thrust of the engine. Thrust is the natural tendency of the forces on the engine to move the crankshaft in and out of the block. At each end of the rear main, the Babbitt rolls over the side of the bearing and forms a ring of metal that keeps the crankshaft from moving in and out of the block. The factory specification for this clearance is 6 thousandths of an inch, but most engines have significantly more. The thrust surfaces are often damaged by riding the clutch of the car, since this puts pressure on the flywheel and creates friction at the rear main.

Like I stated last month, properly maintained Babbitt will give years of reliable service very efficiently, but as all things mechanical eventually show wear, next month I'll go into the actual process of rebabbitting and engine.

Until then, keep 'em running!

In the last two months, we've talked about babbitt, and explained how important the role it plays in the engine actually is. This month I'd like to go a little into the babbitting process for the model A engine.

The first step in rebabbitting the engine is to get the whole engine cleaned and prepped for a rebuild. It is vitally important to get all the machine work that will be required done before the babbitt is poured. After the engine is completely torn down, the old babbitt is removed with an acetylene torch. Babbitt melts at around 600 degrees and flows out like solder. The next step is machining. The block is cleaned in a hot tank, checked for cracks, the cylinders are bored, pistons fitted, valve seats installed or surfaced, and most importantly, the crank is turned.

As an engine turns, the force of the explosion in the cylinders naturally causes uneven wear in the crankshaft. Over time, the bearing surfaces become egg-shaped. Additionally, impurities in the oil can get trapped in the .0015 clearance and score the shaft. It important to get the crankshaft turned at a machine shop THAT IS FAMILIAR WITH A MODEL A ENGINE! I can't emphasize this enough. If the machinist turns the crankshaft like a modern engine is turned, IT WILL BE RUINED! Without going into boring detail, the traditional way of grinding a crank is is to use a locating center and grind based on that as a center. Ford used the locating center as a rough turning locator, and the fine turning was done with reference to the flywheel dowel pins. Grinding wrong will put the 68 pound flywheel off center and will cause horrible vibrations.

As soon as the block is back from the machinist, the very first thing to do is give it a bath in hot, soapy water. This helps to remove all the impurities from the machining process. It is then dried and given a thin coating of light oil, except for the bearing surfaces. The block is now ready for babbitt.

Babbitt is poured into the block and caps using molds to form the molten metal and hold it in place. These molds are commonly called mandrels, and there are as many mandrel designs as there are babbitt pourers. The only requirements are that the mandrels hold the babbitt in place and that they allow for ample thickness of poured metal.

after the mandrels are set into place, the pouring process begins. The front and center bearing caps are made of steel, and in order for them to have a good metal to metal contact, they are heated, cleaned with an acid flux and pre tinned. The rear main cap and block is made of cast iron, and have small holes drilled in them to help anchor the babbitt. A special material called Babbitt Dam is used to plug the holes that the oil comes through in the block.

Now comes the hot part of the job. The Babbitt is heated in a cast iron pot using propane. About 1000 degrees or so will do nicely. Also the block bearing saddles and the caps are heated. There are two reasons for heating. The first is to keep the molten babbitt from solidifying too quick when it is poured into the mold, and the second is to assure there is absolutely NO water or even water vapor in the mandrels. If there should be water and the hot babbitt hits it, force of the expanding steam (water expands 1700 times its volume as steam) will blow the babbitt out of the mold and almost certainly injure the pourer.

Temperatures are constantly monitored. Its' a juggling game to get the babbitt hot enough and keep the mandrels from getting too hot. When everything is ready, the pour begins.

Cast iron ladles are pre heated on the fire and the babbitt is stirred gently to make sure none of the components are settled out. A thin film of impurities forms on the surface of the babbitt called dross. The dross is skimmed off and two ladles are dipped with babbitt.

The metal is then poured into the molds as quickly as possible, being careful to fill the mold with metal and avoid over filling. Each bearing is poured in turn, and then the mandrels are removed quickly for peening. If you remember your physics, as things cool, they shrink, and the peening process forces the cooling metal back tight. The peening tool fits right into where the mandrel sat and then hammered in all directions to expand the metal tight.

Finally, everything is allowed to cool off and the babbitting process is complete. Next month: Lineboring the mains.

Source of information... Internet articles.

The final step in rebabbitting the model A engine is perhaps the most challenging, due to the fact that all the work up to the line boring stage will ultimately show after the mains are bored. If you'll recall, the babbitt is poured significantly smaller than the crankshaft journal size. This allows for the babbitt to be peened into place and then leave ample room for the boring process.

The most critical part of the boring process lies in the setup. If the crank has been properly prepared, all the journals will be in perfect alignment with each other and perfectly round. If that balance is going to remain in place, the 'holes' that cradle the crankshaft must also be in perfect alignment. Added to the problem is that the rods must also align with their respective journals properly, and even more critical, the timing gear must mesh properly with the cam gear.

There are two schools of thought on setting up a align boring rig. The first school says that since the gears of the cam must align perfectly, the best way to line the cutters up is using the cam bores as a reference. Machines that operate on this principle have 'dummy' camshafts that lock the machine in place and locate the boring bar. Typically, cam-located machines are engine specific... they will bore a model A block or a Model T block, but not both.

The other type of machine locates its center off of a reference point on the block iteslf. once that position is located the stanchions are locked in place and the boring can begin. Machines like this are more generic in nature, you can do a model A block in the morning and then turn around and do a straight 8 Packard next.

The journals of the crankshaft are carefully measured. Thousanths are nice, but ten-thousandths are better. The bearing caps are bolted down and torqued with a new set of shims. Each boring bar has a set of holes that accept cutting bits at different locations along the bar. Often times, a production shop will set up all three cutters, and let 'er rip. I prefer to take things a little slower, boring each bearing separately. The first cut is a rough cut, which serves to clean up any uneven babbitt and get the bearings roughed out. The next cut gets you to within about 3-5 thousandths of your final number, and the final cut is to go for a 1.5 thousandth accuracy. Each of these cuts are monitored by careful measuring with micrometers.

After the mains are bored, the next step is to finish the thrust surfaces on the rear main. This 'pillow' of babbitt that clasps over the rear cap serves to keep the end play of the engine in check. Common practice in the business calls for .006 clearance, and this is accomplished by once again carefully measuring the crankshaft and using a special set of cutters to set the clearance accordingly. Once again, the cuts are made slowly and with lots of double checking.

The next step is either heart-breaking or rewarding. You remove all the equipment from the block and do a test fit by setting the crank in position and use plastigage to set the shim thickness. If you've done everything correctly, all will test out between 1 and 1.5 thousandths of an inch clearance, and the bearings will be ready to go with one final step.

The last step is to cut the oil grooves in the bearing. Ford used helical grooves from the oil feed tubes down to the parting line bevels. These grooves allowed the crank to pick up oil in its rotation, but the parting line bevels are the more critical aspect of the grooves. If you'll recall, the crankshaft rides on a cushion of oil, and theoretically there is never a metal-to-metal contact. The fancy name for this oil film is called a hydraulic wedge, and the wedge is picked up in the parting line bevels at two places in the travel of the shaft, where the bearing cap is bolted to the block.

If everything is in order, the crankshaft should turn in the bearings just as smooth as glass with a little resistance, and the engine is ready for final assembly.

Babbitting is becoming a lost art for use in small engines. While it has traditionally been known for its durability and forgiveness, the technology has been superseded by easier, cheaper means of producing a bearing. With modern machining techniques, forgiveness is much less of an issue than it was in the past, and steel shell bearings are now the accepted and used exclusively in engine applications. Babbitting is now used only for the largest mill, turbine and rock crushing applications... and a few of us model A'ers who keep the technology going.

Two weeks ago, we held a technical session devoted to adjusting steering boxes on anyone's car who needed it. We had 4 takers and here's what we found:

Of the 4, one was well within limits and we decided to do nothing. One needed a full adjustment, and the other two needed one bolt tightened.

The model A steering, just like the brake system, relies on very little play for proper operation. In the 2 1/2 turns it takes of the steering wheel from one stop to the other, the shaft that pulls the steering linkage moves just 1/4 of a turn. If you'll think about it, any slop in the pitman arm, drag link or tie rod will be amplified over 10 times at the steering wheel. This is the case we found at the technical session. Here's a few things to look at the next time you get under your car.

With the wheels on the ground, get a friend to move the steering wheel back and forth about 1/2 turn to either side of straight ahead while you're under the car looking carefully. Start at the pitman arm that comes out of steering box and look carefully. There is a special bolt and castle nut that holds the pitman arm to the sector shaft (The square shaft that goes through the pitman arm) This bolt is the culprit of the problems that we encountered at the workshop. In both cases, tightening this bolt eliminated a good part of the steering play at the wheel. If the bolt is worn, order part # A-3592-X, This bolt has a special one-sided head and a thin castle nut that will allow you to get a good tightening on the pitman arm joint.

One of the most misunderstood parts of the Model A steering is the steering box lubrication. I know that there's a grease fitting on the top of the steering box on some of your A's but grease is NOT the lubricant for the steering box. Ford used a grease type fitting to fill the box at the factory until late in the Model A production, and it makes sense to fill all grease fittings with grease, Right? Wrong! If your steering box is full of grease, I'd suggest getting the grease out of there and filling it with 600 wt oil. Unfortunately, many times, the steering box has become worn and the oil will leak out rather rapidly, but usually when this is the case, there are other issues that need to be addressed in the steering box.

Just about every part of the front axle has an effect on the model A's steering. There are many wear points that change the relationship of the tires to the road. These include a worn wishbone ball joint (Under the bell housing), worn king pins (they attach the 'turning' part of the front end to the rigid axle), and even wheel bearings. However, just taking a look at the fit and tightness of the pitman arm, ball joints and steering sector shaft might just be all that is needed to keep your A on the 'straight and narrow'

This isn't a technical article like you're used to seeing, however, after explaining my difficulties last month with the local law enforcement people, Buddy Lamb made the suggestion that I reprint some of the laws that give Model A's special consideration. I've printed each of these laws out and have them in both of my Model A's, just in case.

1. Seat Belt Usage

Florida law requires seat belt usage, but defers the correct type and installation of seat belts to the Federal Motor Safety Standard section 208. After diligent searches of this section, I've made the assumption, that since there are no laws requiring safety belts for cars manufactured prior to 1973 on the FEDERAL books, that since Florida lets the Federal Government handle this issue, and there are no requirements set forth, Model A's and cars not originally equipped with seat belts are not required to have them, and you can't be required to wear them. There is, however a school of thought that if you've installed seat belts, you are required to wear them. Incindentally, if you're taking your grandchild for a model A ride, there are no exemptions to the child restraint law.

2. The following are taken directly from the Florida Statutes:

** notice that there aren't any restrictions on when and where you can drive your Model A, those restrictions are usually a part of your insurance policy. Also, there are no mentions of hauling a load in a truck.

316.221 Taillamps.--

Hopefully, none of us will ever need to explain these laws to an officer, but if we were in the 'wrong', we'd hear the old adage that 'ignorance of the law is no excuse', well, in my book, that's a two way street when it comes to these special provisions afforded Classic and Antique car owners.

Parades are one of the most fun activities you can do in your Model A, but they also tend to bring out the worst in the old Ford. In keeping with Henry's spirit, the Model A will make sure there's a crowd around when it goes to acting up... guaranteed it'll be right in front of the parade dignitary stand with everyone looking on. So this, month, I'd like to forward a list of things for you to check out in preparation for a parade.

First and foremost, I'll remind you of the two cantankerous areas in the the engine compartment; the Carburetor and the Distributor. Carburetor problems often manifest themselves as something you'd swear would be an ignition problem and vice-versa.

If you're comfortable taking apart your carburetor, I'd suggest dropping the lower bowl and cleaning out any debris that's accumulated there. The carburetor is full of tiny passages and small orifices that when clogged can really cause problems, but the good news is that most impurities settle out in the sediment bowl and carburetor bowl before they get a change to gum things up. This is also a good time to clean out the sediment bowl on the firewall, and check the fuel flow rate by holding a container under the sediment filter and having someone turn on the gas for a few seconds. The fuel should flow fairly rapidly, a trickle or weak flow may signal problems on up the line.

Look for leaks around the water pump packing nut and also be sure and grease the pump and make sure the fan is on tight. Look in the radiator with a flashlight and see if there's a buildup of grease and foreign 'goo' in there. If so, a good radiator cleaner will help get that problem under control. Parades tend to heat up the Model A pretty good.

Another thing to keep in mind is that several of our parades are at night, and we tend to use our horns a lot during the parades, so if you're running a generator, it would be a good idea to up the amperage a little so your battery doesn't get discharged. You also might want to check the horn commutator for being dirty.

As for decoration, magnets always work well to hold garland and other decorations on the car. Anything that can block the radiator air flow should be avoided. With luck and a little preparation, parades are a great way to show off your car, expose the public to our club's activities, and have a lot of fun in the process. See you at the lineup!

I watched in disbelief as a friend of mine many years ago torqued the head on my old Ford tractor. He grabbed his torque wrench and quickly adjusted it and went to work while I was still thumbing through the service manual to find the head tightening sequence and torques. I told him to hold up and he said."Hey, 7/16" bolts, 60 foot pounds work from the center out... no problem." OK, then, and to my disbelief, he was dead on with both the torque and tightening order.

So was he some magical Ford tractor man?

NO, he was just a good mechanic who understood the principles of fasteners and their proper application. So this month, I'll spend a few minutes getting down to the nuts and bolts of the matter.

First things first, always use the proper grade fastener. You should use at least grade 5 fasteners on almost everything on your Model A.. Bolts are graded by tensile strength and are easily identified by the number of slash marks. The more marks the higher the quality. More recently, ASTM standard bolts are appearing on the scene and they are marked with a standard number and slash marks. Hardware store bolts with no markings on top are usually soft, mild steel, grade 2 quality and should be avoided like the plague.

Second thing to watch is Torque Specifications. A bolt that has been over tightened can be just as lethal as one that hasn't been tightened enough. A bolt that has been tightened beyond recommended torque specs can easily break in service. In other words the soft grade 2 hardware store bolts that are attaching your pressure plate to the flywheel are an accident waiting to happen when you strong arm them on with a 10" wrench. Keep in mind that torque specs will be less for bolts that have oil or lubricant on them than for clean, dry bolts. Use the following tables to determine what grade of bolt you are working with and how tight to torque it.

And lastly, it is that generally true that you should always tighten the NUT, not use the bolt head to do the actual turning. If you're using old original hardware, it's usually a good idea to invest in a set of thread chasers. These are special dies that clean out all the rust and gunk from inbetween the treads and make the fasteners fit like new.

One exception to the rule is to NEVER chase the threads on the rear differential. Those threads were intentionally made with a slight taper to stem the leakage of oil.

This month, I'd like to discuss what happens when we do have a problem with our model A. Many of us rely heavily on the Model A literature to keep our cars running and to help us out in the various maintenance tasks and repair.

Without a doubt, the most commonly used book is Les Andrew's Model A Ford Mechanic's handbook. This book gives detailed procedures for disassembly, repair and re-assembly of many of the major systems in the Model A. It is a great book for folks with average mechanical ability and is thorough in it's approach to the vehicles, although it has no pictures and every illustration is a line drawing. There are also some significant errors in the book that can confuse the restorer. That being said, no model A shop should be without a copy of this book.

The next book that I recommend and use very frequently is Jim Shilds's Restorer's Model A Shop Manual. This is an older book, but where the Les Andrews book lacks in pictures, the shop manual makes up for it with many pictures, and original illustrations. Although it is somewhat smaller, Schild writes in more of a narrative format, and often goes into 'what if...' type explanations of the common pitfalls and their cures.

Now, without a doubt, the most important books you can have in your library are the Judging Standards and Service Bulletins. The Judging Standards are a joint effort by both of the national clubs to document the proper fit, finish and use of parts on the entire Model A line. It is the final authority used for fine point judging and is the culmination of many thousands of hours of research and examinations of original surviving cars. The judging standards goes into painful detail on every aspect of the model A.

The Model A service bulletins are by far the most valuable resource that you can have when working on your A. The bulletins were a monthly publication sent out to all the Ford Dealerships that outlined changes in the production, common problems and their cures, and always some heavy admonition about shop cleanliness. The service bulletins were the link between the local dealer and Ford. Every change in the production of the Model A was discussed in the Bulletins as well as some of the service concerns that cropped up on a widespread basis.

I always recommend Les Andrew's book first to a new Model A owner, but recommend that a close second be the service bulletins and then the Schild book. It's funny to read how many aspects of the more modern books are directly stripped from the service bulletins. If your library doesn't contain these four books, I'd certainly recommend you invest in them..... when it comes time that you have a problem, they can be a great resource. And we just so happen to have a great Model A supply store that has all of these books available for you. This is not a commercial for Jerry's The Model A Store, however it is nice to have his store so close to us and Jerry as a member of our club.

One of the much touted innovations that came stock with the Model A was the use of 'safety glass' through out the car. In the event of an accident, this glass was supposed to break into relative safe little pieces of glass and avoid shattering with sharp shards.

However, during the seventy plus years of use that the Model A has endured, many times the old glass has been replaced, and very often this was done with common plate glass. This type of glass is cheap, easy to cut, and deadly. If you are in an accident with plate glass, it will be a lot like the mess you see when you drop a mason jar on the kitchen floor. There will be large sharp pieces, smaller sharp pieces, and little tiny needle sharp pieces that can be found everywhere. This is definitely something that you do not want flying in your face.

If you find plate glass in your car, I'd seriously consider having it replaced immediately. For most cars, this can be done for around $200, and since the glass in the A is all flat, most good glass shops have the laminated glass in stock. We have copies of all the glass patterns in our club library.

I seriously hope that none of us ever have the misfortune of having a serious accident with our A's, but with good safety glass, the chance of injury is greatly diminished.